Nietzsche Pops Wrote:What is this?!!! No one recommended a Makarov?!
C'mon.
One of the most reliable handguns in the world. Owners routinely report 0 failures to both fire and eject after 1000's of rounds have been fired through the weapon.
A Soviet designed firearm. (Russians make GOOD GUNS...poor democracies, but good guns). Produced by the Chinese, Soviets, Bulgarians, and the East Germans. Used in every other Steel Shade country from the 1950's to present day.
Solid steel construction (except for the grips, which are plastic with rubber aftermarkets available).
In either .380 or 9x18mm ammo. The 9x18 is a Russian designed caliber. Hovering somewhere in power between a .380 and a 9x19 "regular" 9mm. The surplus ammunition for this gun often incorporates a bi-metal steel jacket around a lead core. (Didn't steel/iron weaken rakoshi?) Arguably improving penetration. Not quite as powerful as the regular 9mm but acceptable when weighed against all the other features of the Makarov.
With a fixed pin barrel design similar to some Walther designs, the Makarov is QUITE capable of taking 100 yard shots and putting them in an area the size of your hand. Making shot placement at closer ranges a snap. (Putting a "hole within a hole" is entirely possible at 10 yards with a Makarov.)
The safety system uses a decocker and is one of the most reliable safety systems in a handgun. Allowing a person to safely carry the gun with a bullet in the barrel, and requiring only one-hand to flick off the safety catch.
The magazine is 8 +1 rounds. Not overly impressive in modern times, but the Makarov is a SURE 9 rounds given it's no jam design. Also, it's magazine is held in place by a European style mag release...which sits at the bottom of the grip. Americans typically don't prefer this type, believing it to be too slow for a rapid mag change. HOWEVER...it does eliminate one very bad problem that I've noticed with other concealed carry firearms. This problem being the accidental release of your magazine when you jostle the American style push buttom mag release while sitting down. It is always embarrassing to step out of your car and hear a mag clatter on the ground as it falls from your now unloaded weapon.
Inexpensive. Makarovs are inexpensive guns. Note I said "inexpensive". Not cheap. Their quality is superb, but their origins and caliber have made them a much overlooked gem. Prices range from $130 to $350 for some models.
Concealable. Not tiny, but concealable. Fits comfortably in the hand of anyone who isn't taller than 6'3"ish.
And finally, threaded barrel replacement allows the possibilty of a silencer attachement.
OK, where do I begin? First of all, when Paul asked for ideas for RJ's backup, I considered the possibility of the PM (Pistolet Makarova) immediately. I own a very nice East German (ex-Stasi "secret police") version of the Mak, known as the "Pistole M". I bought it when they first came on the market for a ridiculously low price that included a spare mag, holster and cleaning tools. I replaced the stupid grips it was imported with with the correct DDR grips and immediately qualified "expert" on it right out of the box. It's so accurate and dependable that I have carried it concealed (with Hornady or CorBon hollowpoints) on many occasions. It's better than my Walther PP (smoother DA trigger) and at least as accurate. In fact, I only practice headshots with it; torso shots are too easy.
Everything you have said about the Mak is correct, and I used mine to teach my son to shoot. I have nothing bad to say about the Mak. That being said, however, the Kel-Tec P11, which I recommended for RJ's backup, can handle 9mm x 19 +P loads (much more powerful than the 9 x 18 MAK round, which is a marginal improvement over the 9 x 17 or .380 ACP load), has mag interchangeability with the S&W double stacks, and thus can be reloaded with 30 round stick mags if necessary, and has been very dependable in my experience. In terms of size efficiency. my P11 is the most bang for the size I've got.
BTW, It's good to find another Mak fan on the board.
http://www.northernindianacriminaldefense.com
"I don't always carry a pistol, but when I do, I prefer an East German Makarov"
My Makarov is a commercial model IJ70-18A. It is in the 9x18mm caliber. The adjustable sights that were placed on the non-military models (made in Russia) REALLY have helped me out a lot. I've been able to sight my handgun to the point that I can hit targets at ranges most other people wouldn't try with a rifle. If I wanted some extra money, I could probably scam a lot of people out of some dough by walking into a firing range and betting everyone I could hit a man sized target 5 times out of 5 at 100 yards with a 4.25 inch barrelled pistol. A man sized target is too easy even at 100 yards for a Makarov. I can hit the upper torso of a man sized target at that range...let alone the whole target.
I almost suggested a hi-capacity version of the Makarov as a substitute. I'm sure that Jack's gun source, the venerable Abe, would be able to supply him not only with the IJ70-18AH model, but would also be able to acquire a 12 round clip. Thus giving a 12 +1 capable firearm for Jack to carry. 13 rounds packed into a concealable firearm...pretty nifty.
That being said however, I have to grant you that the 9x18 will never quite be as powerful a round as the 9x19 Parabellum/Lugar rounds. Those 9x19s are kicking out a lot faster than the 9x18. I have often wished that the Russians had designed the Makarov with the 9x19 in mind....although I've been told that a blowback design isn't really possible for a 9x19...too powerful. The gas needs time to cool. Otherwise the gun might catastrophically burst when you fired it. So the bigger calibers are all DELAYED blowback designs...including the 9x19. As I'm sure you know. But some other folks might not, so I thought I'd mention it.
I have to agree that it is good to find another Mak fan. But what most surprises me isn't your choice of the Makarov (a good pistol design will often become well known) but rather your quoting of Number 6 from the old "The Prisoner" series. I mentioned this under another thread but I'd like to reemphasize it. I do this because I think EVERYONE should see "The Prisoner" at least once. Most people won't benefit from it, but for those who do....it is well worth it.
Another Prisoner quote:
No.6: ``The whole earth as `The Village'?''
No.2: ``Yes, that is my hope. What's yours?''
No.6: ``I'd like to be the first man on the moon!''
--Chimes of Big Ben
A man sized target is too easy even at 100 yards for a Makarov. I can hit the upper torso of a man sized target at that range...let alone the whole target.I almost suggested a hi-capacity version of the Makarov as a substitute. I'm sure that Jack's gun source, the venerable Abe, would be able to supply him not only with the IJ70-18AH model, but would also be able to acquire a 12 round clip. Thus giving a 12 +1 capable firearm for Jack to carry. 13 rounds packed into a concealable firearm...pretty nifty.
That being said however, I have to grant you that the 9x18 will never quite be as powerful a round as the 9x19 Parabellum/Lugar rounds. Those 9x19s are kicking out a lot faster than the 9x18. I have often wished that the Russians had designed the Makarov with the 9x19 in mind....although I've been told that a blowback design isn't really possible for a 9x19...too powerful. The gas needs time to cool. Otherwise the gun might catastrophically burst when you fired it. So the bigger calibers are all DELAYED blowback designs...including the 9x19. As I'm sure you know.
But some other folks might not, so I thought I'd mention it.I have to agree that it is good to find another Mak fan. But what most surprises me isn't your choice of the Makarov (a good pistol design will often become well known) but rather your quoting of Number 6 from the old "The Prisoner" series. I mentioned this under another thread but I'd like to reemphasize it. I do this because I think EVERYONE should see "The Prisoner" at least once. Most people won't benefit from it, but for those who do....it is well worth it.
Another Prisoner quote:
No.6: ``The whole earth as `The Village'?''
No.2: ``Yes, that is my hope. What's yours?''
No.6: ``I'd like to be the first man on the moon!''
--Chimes of Big Ben
This is just my BS opinion, but any weapon an operator carries is simply a tool in a toolbox. The caliber may be a consideration (in certain environs you might not want a really hot caliber) but really it is the skill of the shooter that is of real import.
Where caliber is very important is in interchange between the primary weapon and the backup. It is always preferable to carry the same round for both if possible (less types of ammo to pocket every day and if the primary gun is inactive the backup (by definiton) is small and generally has fewer rounds so if you run out you want to be able to strip the main weapon of its rounds and utilize them in the backup).
An even better idea is to utilize something like the Glock system where even the compact versions can accept full magazines from the full size pistols. That way the operator only has to carry a few extra mags and the two in the weapon and they are all utilizable and accessable. Speed in a gunfight is of the utmost importance. If you need your weapon you need it right then.
My BS opinion only. Your mileage may vary.
Where caliber is very important is in interchange between the primary weapon and the backup. It is always preferable to carry the same round for both if possible (less types of ammo to pocket every day and if the primary gun is inactive the backup (by definiton) is small and generally has fewer rounds so if you run out you want to be able to strip the main weapon of its rounds and utilize them in the backup).
An even better idea is to utilize something like the Glock system where even the compact versions can accept full magazines from the full size pistols. That way the operator only has to carry a few extra mags and the two in the weapon and they are all utilizable and accessable. Speed in a gunfight is of the utmost importance. If you need your weapon you need it right then.
My BS opinion only. Your mileage may vary.
law dawg Wrote:This is just my BS opinion, but any weapon an operator carries is simply a tool in a toolbox. The caliber may be a consideration (in certain environs you might not want a really hot caliber) but really it is the skill of the shooter that is of real import.
Where caliber is very important is in interchange between the primary weapon and the backup. It is always preferable to carry the same round for both if possible (less types of ammo to pocket every day and if the primary gun is inactive the backup (by definiton) is small and generally has fewer rounds so if you run out you want to be able to strip the main weapon of its rounds and utilize them in the backup).
An even better idea is to utilize something like the Glock system where even the compact versions can accept full magazines from the full size pistols. That way the operator only has to carry a few extra mags and the two in the weapon and they are all utilizable and accessable. Speed in a gunfight is of the utmost importance. If you need your weapon you need it right then.
My BS opinion only. Your mileage may vary.
I agree on all counts. Shot placement is more important than calibre, although if you can carry a 9mm vs. a .380 or a .380 vs. a .32 ACP (of similar size), common sense dictates that you go with the more effective calibre. Having your backup in the same calibre as your primary, and even using the same mags, is optimal.
http://www.northernindianacriminaldefense.com
"I don't always carry a pistol, but when I do, I prefer an East German Makarov"
I own a Kahr PM9. 9mm, 6 + 1 capacity, appx 19 oz loaded, has night sights, 5.3" long, .9" wide, 4" tall, polymer and stainless steel (the "bright" stainless steel and black stainless streel - the latter would work much better for "stealth" type sutuations). Easily accurate to 30 feet with practice, recoil is not a problem, works best (less recoil, faster follow up shots) with 115 gr hollowpoints. Frequently carried in a pocket holster or an ankle holster.
Kahr also makes a PM40 - .40 caliber, 5 + 1 capacity, same dimensions as the PM9, also comes with night signts. This one packs a punch. Recoil is more pronounced, but controllable with practice. It should be faster on follow up shots than that baby .45 that Jack carried.
No way anybody with either of these would be undergunned.
Please, retire the .380s!
Kahr also makes a PM40 - .40 caliber, 5 + 1 capacity, same dimensions as the PM9, also comes with night signts. This one packs a punch. Recoil is more pronounced, but controllable with practice. It should be faster on follow up shots than that baby .45 that Jack carried.
No way anybody with either of these would be undergunned.
Please, retire the .380s!
pjbraden Wrote:Please, retire the .380s!
With the exception of the ultra-concealable deep cover pocket guns like the Seecamp and Kel-Tec .380s, I agree. My Kel-Tec P11 is as concealable as my FEG SMC-380 (PPK clone) and holds 10+1 of 9mm vs. 6+1 of .380.
http://www.northernindianacriminaldefense.com
"I don't always carry a pistol, but when I do, I prefer an East German Makarov"
As you increase concealability you lessen accessibility and vice versa. The more accessible it is the more visible it is. Pick your poison - slow or hidden. Fast or visible.
Caliber is really less important than ability to use the tool. A .22 in the eye will make you DRT. I personally like a heavier caliber, but that is me. But more important than caliber is that whatever carry method you use you need to practice from that rig. Not plinking targets at the range with the weapon already in your hand. Practice from the draw. Practice FAST, 'cause in a situation you will not have the option of slow. If you need a weapon you need it RIGHT THEN. And try to stay with that same rig all the time. If you always carry and practice from the shoulder and then go to a, say, ankle holster when the feces hits the fan you will automatically go to what you normally carry and try and draw from. Nothing will be there and it will take precious time for your brain to click and remember where your weapon is. Your higher brain functions shut down under adrenal stimulation and you revert to your training. So, practice under stress (do a 30 second sprint and 20 pushups and then draw your weapon and try to fire. Your hands will be shaking and you will not be steady. That is only a taste of what adrenaline will do to you and your shooting ability). If you have the option some day do some scenario-based training with simunitions. That will ratch up the shooting to as close to the real thing as is possible. And it will really demonstrate ones strengths and weaknesses.
My BS opinion only. Your mileage may vary.
Caliber is really less important than ability to use the tool. A .22 in the eye will make you DRT. I personally like a heavier caliber, but that is me. But more important than caliber is that whatever carry method you use you need to practice from that rig. Not plinking targets at the range with the weapon already in your hand. Practice from the draw. Practice FAST, 'cause in a situation you will not have the option of slow. If you need a weapon you need it RIGHT THEN. And try to stay with that same rig all the time. If you always carry and practice from the shoulder and then go to a, say, ankle holster when the feces hits the fan you will automatically go to what you normally carry and try and draw from. Nothing will be there and it will take precious time for your brain to click and remember where your weapon is. Your higher brain functions shut down under adrenal stimulation and you revert to your training. So, practice under stress (do a 30 second sprint and 20 pushups and then draw your weapon and try to fire. Your hands will be shaking and you will not be steady. That is only a taste of what adrenaline will do to you and your shooting ability). If you have the option some day do some scenario-based training with simunitions. That will ratch up the shooting to as close to the real thing as is possible. And it will really demonstrate ones strengths and weaknesses.
My BS opinion only. Your mileage may vary.
law dawg Wrote:As you increase concealability you lessen accessibility and vice versa. The more accessible it is the more visible it is. Pick your poison - slow or hidden. Fast or visible.
Good advice.
Quote:Caliber is really less important than ability to use the tool. A .22 in the eye will make you DRT.
As an elaboration, I say the four most important things are:
1. Determination . . . A tiny grimly determined woman with a .22 is more effective than an irresolute man with a .44 Magnum.
2. Shot placement. That line from the movie THE PATRIOT says it all, "Aim small . . . miss small." Center of mass? Head? How about aim for the heart (which is actually in the center of the chest, extending to the left just a little.) Aim for the upper lip.
3. Power factor. Carry the most powerful gun you feel comfortable with.
Biggles likes to carry 9mm, I prefer 45 ACP, and Law Dawg also likes a heavy caliber. What ever slays your dragon . . . as long as you're comfortable with it. Although I wouldn't dream of anything anything smaller than a 9mm, unless it was some really strange circumstance, and even then it would be in my normal holster position. (I like cross draw myself.)
4. PRACTISE! PRACTISE! PRACTISE!
Quote:I personally like a heavier caliber, but that is me. But more important than caliber is that whatever carry method you use you need to practice from that rig. Not plinking targets at the range with the weapon already in your hand. Practice from the draw.
More good advice!
And don't start with your hand on the gun. Start from a surrender position, or a scratching your nose position, or scratching your . . . well . . . anything else you can think of.
Quote:Practice FAST, 'cause in a situation you will not have the option of slow. If you need a weapon you need it RIGHT THEN. And try to stay with that same rig all the time.
Here we're going to disagree a bit. When it comes to speed shooting, the best way to start is slowly . . . start practising that is.
Take your gun to the range, and practise your grip . . . slow fire. Keep your eye on the front sight at all times when firing. Especially after you have fired a round and the gun is coming back out of recoil. With an improper grip, your gun may return with the sights off to the left, off to the right, high, low, or some combination. With a proper grip, the gun will drop back with the sights in perfect alignment, ready for the next shot.
With the gun unloaded, start practising your draw. (NEVER look at your gun while drawing -- or returning it to the holster either.) Start slowly. From where ever your hands happen to be, and with your eyes on your target, slowly reach for the gun, and get your perfectly developed grip. Don't actually draw -- just get that grip down perfect . . . every time.
Do this at least two hundred times a night, every night, for at least a month.
Then, from what ever starting position(s), get your grip and slowly draw the gun from the holster. Then put it back into the holster -- all the time watching your target.
Do this at least two hundred times a night, every night, for at least a month. That is . . . after you do fifty get-your-grip drills.
Next, starting from whatever position(s), slowly get your grip, draw slowly, and lift your gun so that your sights are on target -- clicking off the safety and putting your finger on the trigger as your gun is nearing your target. Dry fire one shot (snap caps are a good idea.) Then reverse the process; take your finger off the trigger, click the safety back on (if it will go back on with the hammer down, if not, simulate), and return the gun to your holster -- never taking your eyes off of your target.
Do fifty get-your-grip drills and two hundred of these draw-and-returns every night for at least a month.
The key words to remember here are slowww and smooooth.
One of the biggest mistakes many shooters make is to bring the gun up so they can see the front sight above the rear sight, and then drop the sights into position. This costs time. If you have your grip right, you will be able to sweep the gun up into position and have the sights in alignment and on target without even looking at them. Which is your next drill.
Look at your target, close your eyes, and draw. If you have been practising correctly, you can open your eyes and your sights will be on target. Keeping your same shooting position, look a bit to your left at another target. Close your eyes and draw to it. Do the same to your right, and higher, and lower. Draw to one target, pick a second target, close your eyes, sweep to that target, and open your eyes. Pick a third target, close your eyes and do the same thing.
After a while your shoulder muscles are going to burn and you're going to think your arms will fall off. This is good! This is when your muscle memory is really starting to develop.
After about two months of this, you can start to speed things up a bit. Don't try to go too fast as you can still ruin your draw at this point. Just think; smooooth . . . a little faster . . . and then a little faster . . . but never forget . . . smooooth.
After about six months, draw from different positions. On your knees, getting up from a chair, sitting in a chair, turning to your left, turning to your right, with your back to the target, down on one knee . . . what ever else fancies your strike.
After about a year, you can go to a hundred draws a night, two or three times a week and still keep your edge.
Quote:If you always carry and practice from the shoulder and then go to a, say, ankle holster when the feces hits the fan you will automatically go to what you normally carry and try and draw from. Nothing will be there and it will take precious time for your brain to click and remember where your weapon is. Your higher brain functions shut down under adrenal stimulation and you revert to your training. So, practice under stress (do a 30 second sprint and 20 pushups and then draw your weapon and try to fire. Your hands will be shaking and you will not be steady. That is only a taste of what adrenaline will do to you and your shooting ability). If you have the option some day do some scenario-based training with simunitions. That will ratchet up the shooting to as close to the real thing as is possible. And it will really demonstrate ones strengths and weaknesses.
More good advice yet!
Quote:My BS opinion only. Your mileage may vary.
I wish you would drop the "BS" part. I find it irritating. YMMV
Ken V.
This post was last modified: 07-18-2004, 10:26 PM by Ken Valentine.
Reminds me of Unforgiven....
Little Bill Daggett: Look son, being a good shot, being quick with a pistol, that don't do no harm, but it don't mean much next to being cool-headed. A man who will keep his head and not get rattled under fire, like as not, he'll kill ya. It ain't so easy to shoot a man anyhow, especially if the son-of-a-bitch is shootin' back at you.
[draws]
That's about as fast as I can draw and fire and still hit anything.
I don't own any weapons, but I think I would enjoy going to a shooting range.
Little Bill Daggett: Look son, being a good shot, being quick with a pistol, that don't do no harm, but it don't mean much next to being cool-headed. A man who will keep his head and not get rattled under fire, like as not, he'll kill ya. It ain't so easy to shoot a man anyhow, especially if the son-of-a-bitch is shootin' back at you.
[draws]
That's about as fast as I can draw and fire and still hit anything.
I don't own any weapons, but I think I would enjoy going to a shooting range.
The most merciful thing in the world, I think, is the inability of the human mind to correlate all its contents. ... The piecing together of dissociated knowledge will open up such terrifying vistas of reality, and of our frightful position therein, that we shall either go mad from the revelation or flee from the light into the peace and safety of a new dark age.
~ Howard Phillips Lovecraft
Ken said:
1. Determination . . . A tiny grimly determined woman with a .22 is more effective than an irresolute man with a .44 Magnum.
2. Shot placement. That line from the movie THE PATRIOT says it all, "Aim small . . . miss small." Center of mass? Head? How about aim for the heart (which is actually in the center of the chest, extending to the left just a little.) Aim for the upper lip.
3. Power factor. Carry the most powerful gun you feel comfortable with.
Biggles likes to carry 9mm, I prefer 45 ACP, and Law Dawg also likes a heavy caliber. What ever slays your dragon . . . as long as you're comfortable with it. Although I wouldn't dream of anything anything smaller than a 9mm, unless it was some really strange circumstance, and even then it would be in my normal holster position. (I like cross draw myself.)
4. PRACTISE! PRACTISE! PRACTISE!
Me:
Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
Yes. (I carry a Sig .357 and Ruger SP101 .357 depending on circumstance). I also like .40 cals (especially the Glock series).
Ken:
And don't start with your hand on the gun. Start from a surrender position, or a scratching your nose position, or scratching your . . . well . . . anything else you can think of.
Me:
Agree 100%. I like to start interview stance but that is work related, not necessarily self-defense (SD).
Ken:
Here we're going to disagree a bit. When it comes to speed shooting, the best way to start is slowly . . . start practising that is.
Me:
Agree. I was assuming a baseline competency not just starting. I was also talking about training for a SD situation once baseline is established. Thanks for the clarification. Absolutely correct.
Ken:
With the gun unloaded, start practising your draw. (NEVER look at your gun while drawing -- or returning it to the holster either.) Start slowly. From where ever your hands happen to be, and with your eyes on your target, slowly reach for the gun, and get your perfectly developed grip. Don't actually draw -- just get that grip down perfect . . . every time.
Do this at least two hundred times a night, every night, for at least a month.
Me:
Outstanding advice.
Ken:
Next, starting from whatever position(s), slowly get your grip, draw slowly, and lift your gun so that your sights are on target -- clicking off the safety and putting your finger on the trigger as your gun is nearing your target. Dry fire one shot (snap caps are a good idea.) Then reverse the process; take your finger off the trigger, click the safety back on (if it will go back on with the hammer down, if not, simulate), and return the gun to your holster -- never taking your eyes off of your target.
Do fifty get-your-grip drills and two hundred of these draw-and-returns every night for at least a month.
Me: Agree except for one point. I do not care for safeties. I NEVER use them. Under adrenal stimulation it is too easy to forget. The more actions one must engage also slows down the process (every action needs mental process and also needs physical activity which is slow). Minor quibble only and more of a personal preference.
For SD work one is most likely to encounter less than 7 yards so sight alignment is of lesser import and familiarity is more important. Simply punching out and not squeezing (slamming) the trigger will usually do. By slamming I mean don't slam the trigger back. It must be controlled, especially in single action. Manage recoil. Have a solid grip. Keep a stable platform (I utilize the modern icosoles). Keep firing until the target is down. After the last shot take out the slack for the next shot even if you do not plan on taking it. Assess the situation and only if the weapon is not necessary then back to the holster. The important part is to LOOK around and not put the gun right back into the holster after the last shot. ASSESS. Once you are comfortable and a reasonable decent shot then start ratcheting up the intensity a bit. Shoot after a sprint. Then, to really get the goods, go to simunition if available. There is NOTHING like scenario-based training. It is where the rubber meets the road. Everything else is prep work, in my opinion.
I also hold the same with unarmed work. Start slow, move to sparring and THEN to scenario/adrenal-based training. My good friend Peyton Quinn at RMCAT training is the best I have seen for unarmed and pretty good for armed adrenal training.
YMMV (the rest dropped on advice of counsel...;-))
1. Determination . . . A tiny grimly determined woman with a .22 is more effective than an irresolute man with a .44 Magnum.
2. Shot placement. That line from the movie THE PATRIOT says it all, "Aim small . . . miss small." Center of mass? Head? How about aim for the heart (which is actually in the center of the chest, extending to the left just a little.) Aim for the upper lip.
3. Power factor. Carry the most powerful gun you feel comfortable with.
Biggles likes to carry 9mm, I prefer 45 ACP, and Law Dawg also likes a heavy caliber. What ever slays your dragon . . . as long as you're comfortable with it. Although I wouldn't dream of anything anything smaller than a 9mm, unless it was some really strange circumstance, and even then it would be in my normal holster position. (I like cross draw myself.)
4. PRACTISE! PRACTISE! PRACTISE!
Me:
Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
Yes. (I carry a Sig .357 and Ruger SP101 .357 depending on circumstance). I also like .40 cals (especially the Glock series).
Ken:
And don't start with your hand on the gun. Start from a surrender position, or a scratching your nose position, or scratching your . . . well . . . anything else you can think of.
Me:
Agree 100%. I like to start interview stance but that is work related, not necessarily self-defense (SD).
Ken:
Here we're going to disagree a bit. When it comes to speed shooting, the best way to start is slowly . . . start practising that is.
Me:
Agree. I was assuming a baseline competency not just starting. I was also talking about training for a SD situation once baseline is established. Thanks for the clarification. Absolutely correct.
Ken:
With the gun unloaded, start practising your draw. (NEVER look at your gun while drawing -- or returning it to the holster either.) Start slowly. From where ever your hands happen to be, and with your eyes on your target, slowly reach for the gun, and get your perfectly developed grip. Don't actually draw -- just get that grip down perfect . . . every time.
Do this at least two hundred times a night, every night, for at least a month.
Me:
Outstanding advice.
Ken:
Next, starting from whatever position(s), slowly get your grip, draw slowly, and lift your gun so that your sights are on target -- clicking off the safety and putting your finger on the trigger as your gun is nearing your target. Dry fire one shot (snap caps are a good idea.) Then reverse the process; take your finger off the trigger, click the safety back on (if it will go back on with the hammer down, if not, simulate), and return the gun to your holster -- never taking your eyes off of your target.
Do fifty get-your-grip drills and two hundred of these draw-and-returns every night for at least a month.
Me: Agree except for one point. I do not care for safeties. I NEVER use them. Under adrenal stimulation it is too easy to forget. The more actions one must engage also slows down the process (every action needs mental process and also needs physical activity which is slow). Minor quibble only and more of a personal preference.
For SD work one is most likely to encounter less than 7 yards so sight alignment is of lesser import and familiarity is more important. Simply punching out and not squeezing (slamming) the trigger will usually do. By slamming I mean don't slam the trigger back. It must be controlled, especially in single action. Manage recoil. Have a solid grip. Keep a stable platform (I utilize the modern icosoles). Keep firing until the target is down. After the last shot take out the slack for the next shot even if you do not plan on taking it. Assess the situation and only if the weapon is not necessary then back to the holster. The important part is to LOOK around and not put the gun right back into the holster after the last shot. ASSESS. Once you are comfortable and a reasonable decent shot then start ratcheting up the intensity a bit. Shoot after a sprint. Then, to really get the goods, go to simunition if available. There is NOTHING like scenario-based training. It is where the rubber meets the road. Everything else is prep work, in my opinion.
I also hold the same with unarmed work. Start slow, move to sparring and THEN to scenario/adrenal-based training. My good friend Peyton Quinn at RMCAT training is the best I have seen for unarmed and pretty good for armed adrenal training.
YMMV (the rest dropped on advice of counsel...;-))
This post was last modified: 07-18-2004, 11:04 PM by law dawg.